Shanghai has an almost unlimited number of great restaurants, and there are nearly as many (paid) reviews on websites devoted to them. You can easily get top notch Chinese and international food here, but what about if you want good cheap Chinese food? I don’t see many English resources for this online, probably because the little hole in the wall noodle shop is not paying for an internet review. Here are some things I usually go for and where to find them:
BBQ kebabs (串)
At night outside a lot of bars, at some busier intersections, or near apartment complexes you’ll often see vendors who’ve set up grills to cook up lamb, beef, chicken, vegetable or other various kebabs. You pick and choose what you want and they grill it up while you wait, adding spices and seasoning. At 1 RMB a kebab these make a great snack, and since they’re often set up in front of convenience stores, there’s no excuse not to grab a cold beer to go along with them.
The Chinese character for kebab is easy to remember because it looks like two pieces of meat on a skewer. 串
Price: 1 RMB / kebab
Location: If you’re walking around at night, you can’t miss these. There’s a fruit shop by day/kebab stand by night at Yongjia Road and Xiangyang Road (永嘉在襄阳) that sells them, and always one in front of LoGo bar.
Muslim noodle shops (lamian 拉面)
A longtime favorite of mine, Shanghai has a ton of these little Chinese Muslim run shops that serve the stretch-pulling noodles. A small bowl of beef noodles costs you 5 RMB (used to be 4), and you can add additional beef (4-5 RMB) or a fried egg (1 RMB). They also sell a huge assortment of fried rice and noodle dishes, but it’s the lamian soup noodles that keep me coming back.
Price: 5 RMB / small bowl of la mian (6 RMB for a large one), rice and other noodle dishes around 8 – 12 RMB
Location: Almost every side street in Shanghai has one. Look for the Muslim guys in the little hats and the blue sign with the characters 拉面 (lamian)
Hot pot (火锅)
Hot pot restaurants usually have big pots in the middle of each table with gas heaters. The pots usually have a divider that separates a spicy and non-spicy broth, and you pick and choose your vegetables and meat from a check list to cook yourself. You can also mix together a dipping sauce from an assortment of sauces and garnishings (peanut sauce is my favorite).
Going out for hot pot with a few people is great because you can just sit around for hours eating. Also, the more food you add and the longer it cooks the tastier the broth gets. Also of note here is Shanghai clay pot, similar but with smaller pots and specially pre-cooked chicken or beef. Both go hand and hand with beer.
Note: Beware the haunted fish… several times I’ve had hot pot and only noticed a few hours later that there was a fish hanging out in the broth. Sure it adds to the taste, but it’s still quite a shock to see an unexpected fish head pop up at you.
Price: Depends what you order, but should be no more than 20-30 RMB / person including beer. “Gourmet” hot pot at fancier places will cost you more.
Location: Lots all over the city; look for the characters 火锅 in a restaurant’s sign. A little one we always go to because the atmosphere is great and the boss and staff are cool is at Changle Road and Fumin Road (长乐路在富民路), near the skate shops. Look for the sign with the antlers and bald headed guy.
Noodle Bull (很牛面)
Ok, the Taiwanese run Noodle Bull restaurant is not exactly budget, but the noodles are so damn good they are more than worth the price. The restaurant itself is very “industrial minimalist”, for lack of a better description, and comes off a bit swank; the mix of drum and bass and transvestite techno also makes it feel like you’re eating at a fashion show runway…
But the noodles… wow. Thick, hand made noodles, high quality generous cuts of beef, fresh vegetables and a broth that will keep you coming back for more. These guys would make a killing if they opened this up in the west.
Price: “Signature” beef noodles 25 RMB/bowl
Location: Right across the street from the hot pot place mentioned above at Changle Road and Fumin Road (长乐路在富民路). Apparently they’ve also opened up a couple of other locations.
Xiaolongbao (小笼包)
As I mentioned previously, xiaolongbao is delicious and addictive as hell. Probably my favorite Shanghai breakfast food that’s good any time.
Price: Around 4 RMB for a basket of 8 xiaolongbao, maybe more or less depending on where you go.
Location: The most famous/touristy one is at Yuyuan gardens, but my favorite is at Fahuazhen Road and Dingxi Road (法华镇在定西路). There are actually two here (one west and one east of Dingxi Road), different owners, but both great. Look for a bunch of stacked up bamboo baskets.